Camprodon and Vallter: medieval bridge, Birba cookies and Pyrenean valleys

Camprodon is built around two rivers (Ter and Ritort) meeting in a forested valley. The town's symbol is the Pont Nou (New Bridge), despite being anything but new - it dates from the 12th century and is one of Catalonia's finest Romanesque bridges.

The elegant stone bridge has a high arch spanning the Ter river, with views up to the mountains. It's particularly photogenic in autumn with golden leaves, or winter with snow-capped peaks behind.

The old town preserves traditional Pyrenean architecture:

• Stone houses with wooden balconies
• Arcaded Plaça d'Espanya with shops and cafés
• Monastery of Sant Pere: Romanesque church with beautiful cloister and tower (entry 3 EUR)
• Belle époque mansions from when Camprodon was a mountain resort for Barcelona bourgeoisie

Camprodon is famous throughout Catalonia for Galletas Birba, traditional cookies made since 1850. The original Fonda Birba bakery still operates on Plaça d'Espanya, selling:

• Galletas Camprodon: crunchy butter cookies in distinctive yellow tins
• Coca de llanda: flat sponge cake
• Other pastries: mantecados, polvorones, seasonal specialities

Visit the shop to watch bakers working and sample fresh cookies (they offer free tastings). A tin of cookies costs 8-12 EUR and makes an excellent gift. Several other traditional bakeries in town also sell similar cookies - competition is fierce.

The sweet smell of baking pervades the town centre, especially in the morning.

Drive 15 km north from Camprodon up the increasingly dramatic valley to Setcases, a tiny village (population ~150) at 1,270 metres altitude, surrounded by 2,500-metre peaks.

Setcases ("seven houses" - though there are more now) is picture-postcard Pyrenees:

• Traditional stone houses with slate roofs
• Romanesque church of Sant Miquel
• Dramatic location at the head of the valley
• Starting point for high-mountain hikes

The village has a couple of restaurants serving mountain food: grilled lamb, stews, mushrooms. It's also the base for accessing Vallter 2000 ski resort (another 7 km up a narrow mountain road).

Vallter 2000 is one of Catalonia's highest ski resorts, reaching 2,535 metres. It's small but has stunning scenery and access to the French border ridge.

Winter (December-April): 17 km of ski runs, suitable for all levels. The setting is spectacular, with views to Canigó mountain in France. Day pass costs 40 EUR.

Summer (June-September): the chairlifts operate for hikers. From the top station you can:

• Hike along the border ridge to Pic de Bastiments (2,881m), a challenging 3-hour round trip
• Easier walks around the high plateau with views to countless peaks
• Spot marmots, chamois and alpine flowers

Summer chairlift costs 12 EUR return. The road to Vallter from Setcases is narrow and winding - drive carefully.

Morning: Depart La Tor de Montclar early (8:30am) to drive to Camprodon (2 hours via C-16 north through Cadi tunnel, then N-260 east). Arrive around 10:30am.

Explore Camprodon: photograph the Pont Nou, visit Sant Pere monastery, stroll the arcaded streets. Stop at Birba bakery for cookies and coffee.

Midday: Drive up the valley to Setcases (15 min, spectacular scenery). Walk around the village.

Lunch: Eat in Setcases or back in Camprodon. Try Pyrenean cuisine: grilled lamb, wild boar stew, mushrooms (autumn), mountain cheeses. Set menus 18-25 EUR.

Afternoon: Choose your adventure:

• Option A: Drive to Vallter 2000 (winter skiing or summer chairlift/hiking)
• Option B: Stay in Camprodon area for gentler valley walks and more shopping

Return to Montclar via the same route, arriving back for dinner.